Actually two women this time, it seems. Suddenly waiters and
café proprietors with whom one has always had a somewhat informal relation are
apologetically bringing little till-receipts with one’s coffee or whisky:
telephone calls run up and down the streets; ‘Now they’re having dinner at
Nina’s’, ‘Now they’ve gone over the road for a coffee’, ‘They seem to be coming
this way.’ Some places decide suddenly that this is a good time to close for a
day or two’s rest.
Now of course Greece needs all the taxes it can get, and I
think most decent people would be happy (well, not ecstatic, but willing) to
pay them if they could believe that the money would go to the health or
education of the people. But things have changed little since Byzantine times:
everybody knows that in fact the money goes to fill the already-bursting
wallets of the people in between the tax-payer and the Government Ministries,
so tax avoidance and even evasion (the distinction is becoming more and more
difficult to maintain, as big companies like Amazon find ingenious ways to
exploit the gap between what is legal and what is right) is normal among even
the most public-spirited.
Usually everybody knows when strangers with tax-person-like
briefcases are on the way; someone on the ferry will ring someone in the
island. But there are still a lot of foreign visitors here, so this time they
arrived without anyone’s noticing, and they went straight from the boat to a
seafront restaurant run by a friend of mine. There they ‘discovered’ (they had
in fact been tipped off by a jealous less-successful restaurant owner) that two
of the employees didn’t have all the right papers for working in a restaurant.
So the proprietor must pay a fine of €10,000 per
employee-without-the-right-papers. They ‘generously’ overlooked the second
employee, but 10,000 euros is surely the entire summer’s profits. Since the
bureaucracy is also Byzantine it is almost impossible for any establishment to
be entirely, strictly, within the law, and of course these inspectors get
brownie points (and probably a back-hander) if they catch anyone out.
Not very encouraging for the recovery of the Greek economy.
This is not a picture of the tax ladies.
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